Meade 127 2x-3x Variable Barlow Telescope Lens 07274
Friday, February 26th, 2010 at
1:11 pm
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84: TABLE TOP TELESCOPE - 67x MAG + TRIPOD + LENS
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Meade 127 2x-3x Variable Barlow Telescope Lens 07274
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US $59.99 End Date: Friday Feb-26-2010 21:07:06 PST Buy It Now for only: US $59.99 Buy it now | Add to watch list |
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i like him more matute though
2010-02-26: Flt: 07274 DTW JAX 34 min – Delay. Please check delta.com
From the top of Maslow's pyramid, the view is spectacular. Wish you were here. We'd have a party, look through the telescope and drink wine.
#NowPlaying Gary Barlow – Forever Love
i hope he comes back, he’s so awesome!
If you plan on taking ONE lens, i suggest a Sigma 70-300mm lens. If you are taking more, take a 500mm fixed lens and a wide angle too.
You want as much difference in yours lens' as possible, but take a telephoto if you're just taking one.
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RT Looking for a job at Cyber Command (Ft Meade, MD)? We're hiring!
pas mal le son
Love looks through a telescope, envy through a microscope.
Astronomical telescopes invert the image, because you don't care that a 'star' is upside down. The fewer mirror surfaces the light bounces off of, the less light is lost, the better.
Terrestrial observation telescopes do not invert the image (by adding an extra mirror to re-invert the image). You can always buy an astronomical telescope and add an image inverting mirror, too.
Hunters use small spotting 'scopes all the time. They have the inversion built into a prism inside the scope.
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the guy’s voice is annoying.
was is blackout progt (wie auch immer man es schreibt xD)
√ How to you recompute fixed costs, variable costs, and the BEP for meals served during six months?
I like the second answer, but …
I used to carry a 50mm and a 135mm lens both prime This met almost all my needs, especially since I could move to get shots. My 135 was used partly for sports (not very long there) and for natural light portraits of people from far enough away that they did not know I was shooting them. My camera allowed close work with both lenses. Normally, one lens went on and stayed on in any given circumstance.
Now I use a digital with optical zoom and really like being able to frame closer while shooting.
I don't think there is that huge a difference between a good zoom and
a prime for most shooting – the exception possibly being for making really large prints. But I would want to look at some tests before buying the zoom. The zoom is vital, I think, when shooting in continuously changing situations where subjects change from a person 10 feet away to a group 25 feet away to a vehicle or animal 50 feet to a passing car or scenery at infinity – if it is awkward to rezoom, it is much more awkward to change lenses.
Eduardo Guimarães Noite de domingo. Mais uma vez, o fantasma dos golpes de Estado paira sobre a América Latina. É a vez de Honduras. Num primeiro momento,
Gr8! RT JUST A REGULAR 9YR OLD BOY LOOKING THROUGH THE LENS OF AUTISM. MEET PARKER..
It’s a very good decision to use batting tees in order to practice your skills at hitting a softball. It’s not easy at all to become a great softball hitting machine but batting tees give you a good opportunity to start learning the basics of hitting and how to pick up the skills of this area of the game. This lens has a lot of great softball batti
good session today track slow ugh but but did 5km warm up 2×3x corner excel sprints 5km cool down and 2 training sessions tomorrow and so on
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Technically the 17-55 is "L" quality, but they won't give it that designation since it doesn't fit their film cameras.
Tokina makes a nice 12-24, but it's only an f/4. Of course it trades a better wide angle for less zoom.
yup yup, I am – my Nikon D40 is up for grabs with its 18-55mm Lens & 1GB Card (£150)
"I am" by Jill Phillips
excellent explanation. Straight, concise
Fort Meade,MD | Northrop Grumman | Program Mgr | #tweetajob | | #jobs
gogglefinder’s status on Tuesday, 06-Apr-10 23:55:14 WAT
First, telescope's focal ratio is determined by dividing it's focal length by it's aperture, therefore your telescopes focal ratio is f/10:
2500mm / 254mm ~= 10
Using a Barlow or extension tube will multiply your telescope's focal length, so the focal ratio with a 2x Barlow is f/20:
2*2500mm / 254mm ~= 20
The same goes with a Powermate, it multiplies the telescope's focal length and a 5x Powermate gives you a focal ratio f/50. And the same formula applies to an extension tube also, it gives you more focal legth and less f-ratio.
The focal length and focal ratio determines both your magnification and how much light is projected on to your web-cam's CCD-chip, or how bright the image is. The magnification is directly multiplied by the focal length. When using a 4x Powermate you'll have 4x the focal length and 4x the magnification.
On the other hand the necessary exposure time grows as the square of focal ratio: the lower your focal ratio is the longer exposures you'll have to get – in square! So, when going from f/10 to f/40 with a 4x Powermate you'll need 4^2 = 16x the exposure time to get the same brightness.
So here's the trade-off:
Planets are bright objects in a telescope, but when using low f -ratios you'll have to use much longer exposure times. A longer exposure time means you will have more atmospheric distortions in *each* of your images. So a bigger magnification does not necessarily mean you'll have better planetary images. It depends a lot on seeing and atmospheric conditions. Generally stacking smaller but crisper images will give you better results. But only generally. It really depends.
Therefore my suggestion is to try first with the 2x barlow, and based on those results to try with a bigger magnification later. A 5x Powermate is a good piece of equipment, it gives you a lot more magnification. But keep in mind that bigger magnification doesn't necessarily mean you'll get better planetary images. On a good night it will, on a bad night you'll only get less images to stack.
I suggest you to visit Cloudynights, IMO it's the best forum for these things. Here's one good discussion on the subject:
Clear skies!
Diana Krall, perhaps
The 16" LightBridge is a great telescope for visual observing, but really can't be used for imaging. If you are only using the 26mm eyepiece which came with it, you are just scratching the surface of its capabilities. You need to use a wide field eyepiece to view large objects, and a short focal length eyepiece to see fine detail on the Moon and planets. The Great Red Spot requires a trained eye, high magnification, and good timing, since much of the time the Red Spot is out of sight on the other side of the planet. Currently its colour is very subdued, making it a challenging object in any telescope.
The greatest strength of your scope is for deep sky observing, especially faint nebulae and galaxies. Again this requires training your eye and a good dark observing site. My hunch is that you haven't even begun to use your scope properly. Joining an astronomy club and/or attending a few star parties would be a good place to start.
Dj Paul-Back Da Fuck Back